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New main sail…

While languishing in Trinidad for the second time getting the drip-less seal and the generator fixed I happend to enquire about the price of a new main sail. The old one has done roughly 10,000 miles and is well past its sell by date. Again the prospect of upwind sailing to S America is not to be underestimated.

So – at last a new sail! USS sails struck a great deal on a beautiful new main sail – fully monogrammed with the “Moody” logo, …terrific.

It even furls easily – great job!

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Oh oh…

The new leak proof, lifetime guarantee, drip-less seal on the propeller shaft is – er – leaking…..

Not so much that Enterprise would sink – but enough that I don’t want to sail to South America with this worry.

On top of which the generator capacitor is having an argument with the inverter /charger – don’t worry its a boaty thing. It was great to get help from Steve on Aztec Dream – who helped to diagnose the generator fault and lent me his only spare capacitor… it was good to be able to return the capacitor to Steve later when I got 2 extra ones in Trinidad. The cruising community are always willing to help it makes life so much easier to be able to tap in to the wealth of experience that fellow boaters can offer.

There is no choice but a sail back to Trinidad and a lift out for repairs – all of which must be done before the Nereids Rally departs on 5 September.

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Life in Tobago…

After an anchoring at Store Bay, you take your dinghy and head for the beach. On arrival, you drag the dinghy up the beach and chain it to a palm tree – swapping pleasantries with the local rasta who are sitting in the shade writing lyrics and smoking their own brand of tobaco. You then march a 1/4 mile to a road junction and wait for a bus. They don’t come – so a passing “taxi” – a guy with a car that was given its last rites some years previously, negotiates to take you across the island to the capital, Scarborough. Thirty minutes later you get out at the ferry port and find a tiny office in the deserted ferry terminus building where once more you “check-in” by filling out copious forms in triplicate. Scarborough is a town of about 20k people – small you might think. Excpet when they all talk at once and all have hifi systems that were once used by Pink Floyd.

You reverse the journey, and get back to the dinghy hoping that nothing has been “borrowed” from it or it itself has been “borrowed.” This is the way “day-one” passes in many of the stops along the way. You put out of your mind the prospect that you have to repeat this exercise on the “check-out” lap.

Sights of Tobago.

TobagoMap Store Bay
Store Bay to Scarborough.. Store Bay
Pigeon-point Bay
Pigeon Point.. Distant views..
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Posh hotel.. Colonial past…
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I love signs.. There are a lot of issues for the local mayor to deal with..

Sambol ..

Life could not progress without making coconut sambol –  with my new coconut scraper…

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Green beans….? Onion…
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Chilli powder, salt, lemon juice.. Scrape a real coconut..
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Fry it up with Maldive Fish… High tea is served…

Off to Tobago…

At last we are free of the confines of Power Boats marina.

Three fellow cruisers – Aztec Dream; Nautilus and Fenicia are leaving today for Tobago – at last!.

We all plan on joining the Nereids Rally to Guyana – and the sailing angle from Tobago is much more favourable. Not to mention that Tobago is a wonderful little island.

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Fenicia sailing along behind.. Cutting through the notorious Dragons Mouth
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Enterprise at anchor Store Bay, Tobago Enterprise at anchor
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Ok ok I was going to put up the anchor ball… Give me a break !

Life in Trinidad

The other aspect of the cruising life is of course fixing stuff. Every cruiser has to spend at least one day a week on DIY.

Whether its a new million pound wonder boat or a 30 year old wooden yawl held together by Rescue Tape. By the way – get Rescue Tape – its marvellous !

 

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Assorted “useful” o-rings… Engine oil change time…
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The local rigger – washed up here from Norway ! ….to lubricate furling mainsail mechanism

Life in Trinidad

I have been berated for not posting anything since last August (2016).. its is now Feb (2017)..!

A lot of water has passed under the keel.

Life in the Power Boats boat yard is ..in the words of the late great Robin Williams “..hotter than a snakes ass in a wagon rut”. For 10USD you can get an a/c unit duck-taped to the rear hatch – which is the aft cabin …so yoy can get a decent nights sleep. Since the boat is plugged in to shore power I then set up a main powered fan to blow the cool air around the boat. That is all well and good – except you then become a hermit hiding in the boat in the day and emerging at sunset for the “Happy Hour”. By the way I still haven’t seen the so called “green flash” at sunset !

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Enterprise moored in the “Creek” A/c unit on the back
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Aerial view of harbour The famous “Power Boats” Marina

Shopping is a matter of getting on to the “Jesse James” mini bus – that runs several times a week to a local supermarket, and a variety of other speciality shops. Unfortunatley its too far to walk, the marina and shipyard areas are way out of town.

 

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Jesse James bus Pattie shop..
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Beef Pastelles – meal wrapped in a banana leaf.. Not bad – with support from the pickle cupboard : – )

Carib Great Race 2016…

Saturday 20th Aug 2016…The day of the big race. Hundreds of boats small and big turn out to watch the start of the annual Trinidad to Tobago powerboat race. Leaving the Port of Spain Waterfront at 8:00AM Team Paramount arrived in Tobago at 9:10AM to complete the 116-mile journey in 1 hour 10 minutes to claim first place.


The sea is not always like a lake -  and the spectators show no fear – driving their boats pretty much like they drive their cars…
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There is even a “Pirogue Class” – just to help the pirates keep up to speed ..!

 

It was a great day. We were lucky to be invited out, together with our neighbours on SV Fenicia, to a picnic with Jesse Gangasingh (the electrician) and his family aboard a pirogue..!

We were told to be ready for a pick up at 0600. So I set the alarm for 0500 and woke up at 0430 in order to make sure the alarm went off….Needless to say we were eventually picked up by Jesse and his family… at 0830….it’s the Caribbean.

We had a lovely day. Jesse nd his family were warm and fun loving. We stopped at Scotland bay and waded ashore with dozens of parcels of food and drink. Including an old car wheel hub that was to be used as the base for the BBQ – Trine style.

Jesse’s family have Indian ancestry and the spices were abundant in the cooking – fantastic food! Best BBQ on a Ford Escort wheel that I have ever tasted – especially after the Trini technique of throwing brown sugar on the charcoal for extra flavour…

 

We went to Turtle bay for swimming, and more “Liming”… accompanied by some very large dolphins who were busy herding fish into the bay for their own picnic.

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Happy crew waiting for pickup at 0600…
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Wading ashore with all the gear..
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A Taste of Trini! …

Thursday 11th August, 0900. We are booked on the “Taste of Trini” bus trip with the famous Jesse James. The tour started right outside the gates of the marina with Jesse hopping off to get us  Fry Bake, Saltfish and Smoked Herring… that was certainly a rude awakening for most of the drowsy cruisers – you have to remember the average age of the 10 guests is well over 55…ahem…perhaps a bit older, but we are 5 hours behind the UK so I think that counts in some strange way.

Jesse BusJesse roars off in his van. As we leave the confines of the two lane, potholed road that connects Chaguaramas to the suburbs of Port of Spain the road widens and turns into a 4 lane freeway. Suddenly the traffic lights ahead change to flashing red, this is the signal for Jesse to put down his phone for a moment, put on his seat belt and accelerate “to beat the red”. You have to get in to the spirit of driving in the islands!…

The day progresses, and Jesse stops at a variety of roadside stalls, huts, cafes, street vendors … all the time trying to surprise and delight his captive audience.

I counted 32 stops during the day and and even greater number of Trinidadian delicacies. Some were fantastic like “Doubles” – a roti filled with curried chickpeas. Some were not too bad…like “Cow Heel Soup” – take a soup and float some gristle in it. Some were a challenge – BBQ’d pigtails. Yet others were absolutely revolting – “Chickens Feet” – served in a cup neatly manicured. Only one of the party managed to get these anywhere near his mouth – he was an old rugby player so that explains it. Jesse informs us that he will take the feet home, apparently this will impress his wife.

Here is the list of what we ate between 9am and 7pm.

Stop Description Link
1 Fry Bake image http://www.cookingwithria.com/2011/05/trini-fried-bake.html
Saltfish image https://www.google.tt/search?q=fry-bake-and-saltfish&oq=fry-bake-and-saltfish&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58j69i60j0.1489j0j4&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#q=bake+and+saltfish+recipe
Smoked Herring image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/fry-bake-and-smoke-herring/
Chicken liver image http://caribbeanpot.com/caribbean-style-chicken-livers/
2 Cheesy potato pie image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/tag/trinidad-cheesy-potato-pie/
3 Trini beef pie image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/trinidad-beef-pie-pastry/
4 Sada Roti & Baigan Choka image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/sada-roti-and-baigan-eggplant-choka/
Bitter Gourd image http://ameliawilliams20.blogspot.com/2012/09/caraille-bitter-gourd-or-bitter-melon.html
5 Cow heel soup image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/cow-heel-soup/
6 Beef pie – pastry image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/trinidad-beef-pie-pastry/
Chicken pie – pastry image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/trinidad-beef-pie-pastry/
Fish pie – pastry image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/trinidad-beef-pie-pastry/
Coconut bake image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/coconut-bake/
7 Chenet image http://www.hgcaribbean.com/outdoors/chenet
8 Doubles image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/doubles/
Saheena (Sahina) image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/saheena-i/
Kachori image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/kachourie/
9 Pomerac image http://thehealthnutcorner.blogspot.com/2011/07/tropical-fruit-pomerac-or-rose-apple.html
10 BBQ Pigtails image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/barbecue-pigtail/
Macaroni Pie image http://www.cookingwithria.com/2013/08/cheesy-and-creamy-trinidad-macaroni-pie.html
11 Goat curry image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/curry-goat/
Green fig

(Green Banana)

image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/green-fig-pie/
Cassava image https://recipes.sparkpeople.com/recipe-detail.asp?recipe=2658630
12 Goolab Jamoon image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe/goolab-jamoon/
13 Preserved – red mango image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/red-mango/
Preserved – five fingers (star fruit) image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/preserved-five-finger/
Preserved – Pommecythere Kuchela image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe-type/preserves/
14 Drink – Sorrell image http://caribbeanpot.com/traditional-caribbean-sorrel-drink/
Drink – Mauby image https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mauby
15 Roast corn image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/roast-corn/
16 Mango anchar image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/mango-anchar/
17 Barfi image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe/barfi/
18 Kurma image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/kurma/
19 Coconut finger image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/coconut-turnover/
20 Fruit cake image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/sugarless-fruit-cake/
21 Bread pudding image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe/bread-pudding/
22 Coconut rock cake image http://caribbeanpot.com/coconut-drops-with-your-tea/
23 Star fruit image http://www.whatocook.com/trini-fruits/
24 Chickytoe (baby) banana image http://wiwords.com/word/chickytoe
25 Soursop image http://wiwords.com/word/soursop
26 Pholourie Balls image http://oliveandruby.com/recipes/pholourie-balls-recipe-trini-style
Geera chicken image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/geera-chicken/
Chicken feet souse

 

OMG !

image http://caribbeanpot.com/how-to-make-caribbean-chicken-foot-souse/
27 Pork cutters image http://caribbeanpot.com/tag/trinidad-cutters/
28 BBQ Chicken image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/barbecue-chicken/
29 Cocoa pod seeds image http://sweettntmagazine.com/tasty-cocoa-pod/
30 Tamarind balls image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/tag/trinidad-tambran-tamarind-ball-recipe/
31 Toolum image http://cooking.nytimes.com/recipes/10610-tooloom-trinidadian-molasses-and-coconut-sweetmeat
32 Fish image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/fried-fish/
Jerk pork image http://caribbeanpot.com/the-ultimate-jerk-pork-recipe/
BBQ Pork image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/barbecue-pork/
Macaroni salad image http://www.simplytrinicooking.com/macaroni-salad/
Bhaji rice image http://www.simplytrinicooking.org/recipe/trini-bhaji-rice/
Lentils image http://caribbeanpot.com/stewed-lentils-caribbean-style/
33 Home made ice cream –

Soursop; peanut; vanilla; chocolate

image http://caribbeanpot.com/tag/caribbean-ice-cream/

Chaguaramas…

Enterprise is moored up in a small creek off the main bay at a place called Chaguaramas. The marina has a large area for storing boats “on the hard”. Most cruisers leave their boats here and go off home for a few months coming back for the season in October/November.

The marina is very well served by tradespeople and the standards of workmanship are very high. Its interesting to note that Trinidad has its own extensive teak plantations, so getting wood work repaired or teak fittings created for a boat is also very easy and of the highest quality.

We have almost completed our to do list since arriving on the 3rd August. Including such delights as servicing all the winches (I have only ever done one myself in the past 5 years); re-cutting the main sail (too baggy for words) ; getting a new boarding ladder (fell off in Martinique) ; fitting a new ignition switch (died en route Trinidad); fitting a new remote panel for the Victron inverter (died en route Trinidad); ; and the usual cleaning and fixing jobs all over the boat.

The mainsail has been due for replacement for ever since the Atlantic crossing – maybe before!. The sail loft here is called Ullman Sails. They did such a good job on re-cutting the old, baggy sail – it now goes in and out of the in-mast furling … that I decided to talk to them about a new sail. Luckily, they are having a quiet time so I managed to get a great price for a new sail and it should be delivered and fitted next Wednesday. They even threw in some go faster stripes and the “Moody” yachts logo.

That means we are only waiting for a parcel of spares from the UK (c/o son Joe) – then we can make tracks for Tobago.

We have had a briefing for the Nereids Rally that sets off on Sept 5th and we are really looking forward to the next adventure. It appears that many of the participants will be starting from Tobago rather than Trinidad since it is a much nicer place to anchor.. and the sailing angle for Guyana is favourable.